Homps RETURN via Béziers 7-Night Itinerary
Set off from Homps for seven easy nights on the Canal du Midi. Pause in pretty villages like Paraza, Capestang and Poilhes for waterside lunches and wine tastings. Take in the Malpas Tunnel, the views from the Oppidum d’Ensérune and the famous Fonséranes lock staircase at Béziers. End with a peaceful stop in Le Somail before meandering back past vineyard châteaux and low stone bridges to Homps.
Suggested Itinerary
Arrive at base
2pm – 5pm
After you have arrived and checked-in, we’ll show you to your boat as quickly as possible. Spend time settling in, freshen up and await your pre-departure briefing which will be given by one of our base technicians. They will familiarise you with the boat’s domestic systems and give you a hands-on demonstration of the boat controls and how to operate it. They will make sure you are comfortable and confident controlling the boat, as well as navigating the waterway, before you set off.
Food for the journey: While part of your crew is settling on the boat, you can buy some provisions and food for any meals you decide to enjoy on board. There’s a supermarket on the opposite side of the canal to the base – cross the footbridge and take a 7 – 10-minute walk along Rue de Port and Rue de la Barque.
There’s also a great wine merchant, La Maison des Vins du Minervois, just across the footbridge from our base. They offer a vast selection of wines from over 100 wineries and vineyards of the region, and they will gladly allow you to try before you buy. They are open until 6pm, Mon – Fri
Dinner at Les Tonneliers, Homps
7pm – 9:30pm
Cross the footbridge by the base and in a couple of minutes you’ll be there. Dine in a beautiful and elegant garden setting serving fresh French and Mediterranean cuisine. Booking recommended: +33(0)4 34 44 20 19 | lestonneliers.fr | Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Note: If you are able to set-off from the base early enough, Argens-Minervois is only 2-hours and 5 locks away, with a ‘finger-lickingly’ good barbecue restaurant for you to enjoy for dinner. Booking recommended: +33(0)4 68 41 51 96 | laguinguette-restaurant.com
Overnight in Homps
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Homps > Paraza
9am – 11:30am
Approx. 2 hrs 30 mins | 6 locks
The peaceful surroundings make for a relaxed introduction to your cruise to Paraza, with minimal twists and turns and six locks along the way to practice on. Moor at the alongside moorings next to the village.
Lunch at OKN9, Paraza
12pm –1:30pm
OKN9 is the perfect stop for lunch, with a relaxed terrace set right beside the Canal du Midi. The menu blends French, Mediterranean, and Italian influences, featuring fresh seasonal dishes such as seafood, ravioli, and pavé de saumon, alongside lighter plates and tempting desserts.
Booking recommended: DigiResa: OKN9 | +33 (0)7 49 48 48 55
Explore Paraza
2pm – 4:30pm
Near the center of the village and dominating the brow of the hill is Château de Paraza, which is where Pierre-Paul Riquet was housed while he oversaw the building of the canal. Today, wine is produced at the château and its owners offer guided tours and wine tasting. You can just turn up, but we’d recommend booking in advance. Contact: Lucile Danglas on +33 (0)9 64 33 37 43 or +33 (0)7 78 19 16 41 or email: chateaudeparaza@gmail.com | €45 per person. The Château opens at 10am and its a 10 minute amble, uphill, to get there.
Paraza > Le Somail
5pm – 6pm
Approx. 1 hr | 0 locks
The Port du Somail is subject to a mooring fee – please contact the Harbour Master’s Office for more details. +33 (0)9 84 58 81 38 | +33 (0)7 44 90 00 06
When you arrive, we recommend ordering bread and pastries for your morning breakfast from the grocery barge: +33 (0)6 69 53 67 18
Dinner at l’Escale du Somail, Le Somail
7pm – 9pm
This perfectly-situated restaurant has a pleasant shaded terrace and offers delicious dishes full of flavors in generous portions. +44 (0)4 68 42 22 61 | lescaledusomail.fr
Overnight in Le Somail
Breakfast on board
7:30am -8:30am
Le Somail > Argeliers
8:30am -9:30am
Approx. 1 hr | 0 locks
Once you reach Argeliers, continue on until you spot a bridge up ahead and moor up just before.
Explore Argeliers
9:30am – 10:45am
In the heart of Argeliers stands a modest 17th-century château, a reminder of the village’s long history and southern charm. Surrounded by Minervois vineyards, the setting is wonderfully scenic, with rolling vines and views across to the Corbières foothills. Enjoy a gentle stroll or cycle along the towpaths.
Argeliers > Restaurant Le Pourquoi Pas, Nr Capestang
10:45am – 12pm
Approx. 1 hr 15 mins | 0 locks
Moor up just before or after the bridge and you’ll find your lunch-stop just steps away from your boat.
Lunch at Le Pourquoi Pas, Nr Capestang
12pm – 1:30pm
A favourite with the Homps base team. Settle at a shaded table with vineyards in view and linger over a relaxed, French-style lunch.
Booking strongly recommended: lepourquoipas.eu | +33 (0)6 79 36 05 33 / +33 (0)6 28 78 49 47 | Closed on Mondays. Open from 12pm – 13:30pm for lunch.
Note: If you’re stopping here on a Monday, when Le Pourquoi Pas is closed, simply moor up outside and enjoy a picnic on board or alongside your boat. As this is roughly halfway between Argeliers and Capestang, it’s the perfect spot to pause, relax, and take in the picturesque scenery of the surrounding winelands.
Restaurant Le Pourquoi Pas > Capestang
1:45pm – 3pm
Approx. 1 hr 15 mins
Make your way into the heart of Capestang. The stone bridge at Capestang is among the lowest on the canal. Take it slow and central under the arch.
Explore Capestang
3pm – 6:30pm
Capestang is a small village. The Gothic St. Étienne Collegiate church was built in the 13th century by the same team who built the cathedral in Narbonne. It was meant to be a lot bigger and grander, but it was never finished, hence the rather ‘out-of-place’ grandeur of the stained-glass windows and other features. It is worth paying for a tour, which grants you access to the bell tower, from which magnificent views over the Cevennes foothills, the Pyrenees and the Oppidum of Ensérune can be enjoyed. This ancient Archbishop’s Castle was the Archbishop of Narbonne’s summer residence and, while it’s not much to look at from the outside, it’s worth a visit to see the palace staterooms and a ceiling adorned with 15th century paintings.
Dinner at Château Les Carrasses, Nr Capestang
7pm – 9pm
This old wine château from the 19th century welcomes you to its brasserie or terrace overlooking the garden and the surrounding vineyards. It is most definitely worth taking the time to get here if you want somewhere extra special to dine. The food is, without question, sublime. In the Château’s shop, you will find regional wines and homemade jams, tapenade, olives and crafts. Located 2.6km from the canal in Route de Capestang, the most convenient way to reach the restaurant is by taking a quick taxi ride (CAPES’TAXI: + 33 (0)4 67 11 00 83).
Booking recommended: +33 (0)4 67 00 00 67 | lescarrasses.com
If you can’t get a table at the Château, or would like to eat somewhere more relaxed and closer to your moorings, we’d recommend Le Provence, a restaurant and pizzeria serving simple but delicious fare and scrumptious ice cream for dessert. Especially recommended for families with younger children. +33 (0)4 67 93 36 54 | leprovence.restaurant | Closed on Sundays.
Overnight in Capestang
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Capestang > Poilhes
9:15am – 10am
Approx. 45 mins
Explore Poilhes
10am – 12:30pm
Stretch your legs before lunch with a relaxed stroll through this peaceful canal-side village wrapped in a gentle bend of the waterway. A short ride or walk along the towpath brings you to the Malpas tunnel, the first navigable canal tunnel in Europe, carved in 1679 beneath the Ensérune hill.
Lunch at Les Platanes, Poilhes
12:30pm – 2pm
Les Platanes is a highly rated little restaurant situated at a leafy crossroads just a stone’s throw from the canal. Sit on their cute kerb-side terrace, enjoy delicious French and Mediterranean cuisine and receive a warm welcome from its New Zealand owners. +33 (0) 4 67 93 38 41
Poilhes > Fonséranes Locks
2:15pm – 4pm
Approx. 1 hr 45 mins
Slip past plane trees and through the short Malpas Tunnel, then follow the canal towards Béziers. Keep a steady course in the tunnel and use your deck lights for visibility.
Please note: On arrival, we recommend mooring before the Fonséranes lock flight for an overnight stay, then continuing your exploration on foot. To make the most of your time exploring Béziers, it’s best not to pass through the locks.
Explore Fonséranes Locks and Béziers
4pm – 6:30pm
Spend your late-afternoon marvelling at the Canal du Midi’s most famous feat of engineering. Wander up beside the lock staircase to watch the steady rhythm of boats rising and descending, then make your way into the heart of Béziers by foot, bicycle or taxi, and pause at the viewpoints for big-sky vistas across the Orb plain. Saint-Nazaire Cathedral, a 30-minute walk from Fonséranes Locks, has a visitor area with clear panels and displays that bring the story of the canal to life. The towpath makes an easy stroll for all ages.
Dinner at Restaurant Le 9, Béziers
7pm – 9:30pm
Le 9 pairs fresh, modern plates with one of the best outlooks in Béziers. Its striking glass roof, shaped like a barge’s prow, frames wide views over the Orb plain and the city’s acropolis on one side, and the famous Fonséranes lock staircase on the other. Settle on the terrace or in the garden for a breathtaking glimpse of Saint-Nazaire Cathedral while boats glide by below.
Booking recommended: le9.fr | +33 (0) 4 67 36 85 64
Overnight at the top of Fonséranes Locks
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Fonséranes Locks > Malpas Tunnel, Colombiers
9am – 9:15am
Approx. 15 mins | 0 locks
Just outside Colombiers, moor on the left just before the entrance to the Malpas tunnel.
Explore the Oppidum of Ensérune
9:30am – 11:30am
Follow the path uphill, towards the Oppidum of Ensérune, an archaeological site that offers a remarkable glimpse into the past, from the Bronze Age to the Roman conquest (6th century BC to 1st century AD). Follow the trail to discover the well-preserved remains of the ancient village and 300 silos dug into the rock to store grain. The museum houses a fine collection of pottery and ceramics from excavations on this site.
This is also the best viewpoint to see the dry Montady Lake, which was once a marsh of stagnant water which once caused many epidemics. In the 13th century, the lake was dried out using 60 drainage ditches, which split this vast expanse of 430 hectares into the shape of a large shining sun. From the center, an underground culvert, 1.3km in length, evacuates water through the hill of Ensérune, under the Malpas Tunnel, and away to the south.
Malpas Tunnel > Capestang
11:45am – 12:30pm
Approx. 45 mins | 0 locks
Begin by cruising through the Malpas tunnel, which passes under the hill of Ensérune and was dug, in secret, by Riquet. A few meters of digging in hard rock revealed very brittle sandstone, subject to slippage. So, work was stopped by the prime minister while he sent a royal commission to decide the canal’s future. Undeterred, Riquet began digging anyway and completed the tunnel in eight days. The tunnel is 173m long, 6m wide and 8.5m high – the first navigable canal tunnel in Europe.
Please note: There’s no room for passing other boats, so check that passage is clear first, and sound your horn before entering.
Lunch on board
12:30pm – 2pm
Visit Domaine la Provenquiere, Capestang
2:30pm – 5pm
Set just outside Capestang among the Languedoc vineyards, this family estate makes a charming outing for the afternoon. Four generations of the Robert-Boularand family have nurtured both the vines and the heritage of a château that traces nearly five centuries of history. Book a guided tour and tasting: Cellar visit and wine tasting | La Provenquière Estate
The estate is an easy 10-minute taxi from the canal. Tours run at set times throughout the day, so it is worth checking availability in advance and choosing the option that suits your day.
Dinner at La Bateliere, Capestang
7pm – 9pm
Set beside the canal, La Batelière serves comforting Provençal dishes with a warm, unpretentious welcome. Take a table on the terrace to watch boats drift past as you enjoy classics like grilled fish, herb-scented meats and market-fresh salads, paired with an easy-drinking local wine.
Booking recommended: labateliere-capestang.fr | +33 (0) 4 67 93 42 77
Overnight in Capestang
For families with younger children
Vélorail du Midi: Make a stop during your cruise between Poilhes and Capestang after Les domaines Marins and before the road bridge and walk 10 min towards Lieu dit, Le Bosc in Montardy. Vélorail is a family fun activity where you drive a cart on rails which has 2 driving positions, each equipped with a brake. The cart can fit a total of 2 adults and 3 children. The 7 km (1h15) return route in the heart of nature is largely shaded, crossing the undergrowth and landscapes of the region. The Vélorail is like a journey through time. In the distance, the cathedral of St Nazaire in Béziers dominates the skyline and the medieval tower of Montady is watching you. You will pass at the foot of the oppidum of Enserune and cross Montady and its many aqueducts designed in the Middle Ages.
For booking and departure times: velorailducanaldumidi.fr/en/the-course | +33 (0) 6 17 05 69 58
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Capestang > Le Somail
9am – 12:30pm
Approx. 3 hrs 30 mins | 0 locks
As you leave Capestang, the stone bridge you pass under has the reputation of being the lowest on the canal (the lowest is actually in Carcassonne). Its curved shape makes it quite tricky to pass under, so take it slow and steady.
Lunch on board, Le Somail
12:30 – 2:30pm
After your morning cruising, enjoy a leisurely lunch on board and then stroll to Le Glacier du Somail for a scrummy frozen dessert. They open at 2pm.
Cycle to L’Oulibo
2:30pm – 2:50pm
If you added bike rental to your vacation booking, we suggest cycling 20 minutes to the north of Somail to visit the The Olive Oil Cooperative Oulibo. Or the tourist information office (next to Nicols) may arrange a taxi for you.
Explore the Olive Oil Cooperative Oulibo
3pm – 5pm
Enjoy a 1.5 hr guided tour (afternoon tours start at 3pm) through the olive groves to learn about farming olives and the production of olive oil, including a sound and light show and tasting. Book a tour in advance: +33 (0)4 68 41 88 84 | loulibo.com/guided-visit
L’Oulibo offers a free guided tour (per family) and 5% discount in their shop, to Le Boat customers.
Cycle back to your boat in Le Somail
5pm – 5:30pm
Explore Le Somail
5:30pm – 6:30pm
Take some time before dinner to wander around this pretty little Languedoc town that is home to quality restaurants and a couple of art galleries. The antiquarian bookstore (“Le Trouve Tout du Livre”, which literally translates as “The place to find all the books”) is popular and opens between 2:30pm – 6:30pm.
Dinner at L’Ô à la Bouche, Le Somail
7pm – 9:pm
L’Ô à la Bouche is a beautifully converted wine cellar is the ideal setting for this restaurant that serves elegant and tasty French food and exquisite desserts (all home-made). They hold the Maître Restaurateur title which recognizes excellence and their commitment to quality. Their outdoor seating is right next to the canal. Booking recommended: +33 (0)4 68 46 00 09 | loalabouche-somail.com | Closed on Wednesdays.
Overnight in Le Somail
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Le Somail > Ventenac-en-Minervois
9am – 10am
Approx. 1hr | 0 locks
On this stretch of the canal, you’ll pass over the Répudre Canal Bridge, one of the only canal bridges built by the canal’s famous designer, Pierre-Paul Riquet. By passing over the waters of the Répudre, it avoided the damage that its waters caused to the canal during floods. Completed in 1676, it was the first canal bridge built in France and is reputed to be the second in the world.
Explore Ventenac-en-Minervois
10am – 1pm
This tiny village is noted for its waterside wine cellar in the attractive canal-side Château de Ventenac-en-Minervois. Here, local wines can be sampled for free under the arches of its amazing vault. For €2 you can also tour the small museum, ‘Grenier des Vignerons’, which has a collection of tools for growing grapes and winemaking from the 19th century.
Lunch at La Grillade Du Château, Ventenac-en-Minervois
1pm – 2:30pm
A relaxed pause under a leafy canopy, just steps from the moorings. Settle in for wood-fired pizza and simple Mediterranean plates, paired with easy-drinking Minervois wines. Friendly service, plenty of shade and a breezy terrace make it an easy choice for families and hungry crews alike.
Ventenac-en-Minervois > Homps
2:45pm – 5:30pm
Approx. 2 hrs 45 mins (+45 minutes for a walk and time to enjoy the view) | 6 locks
Moor just after Pechlaurier Locks and scale the short but steep path that leads to a look-out for some great view over the canal and surrounding countryside. Then continue your journey on to Homps.
Explore Homps
5:30pm – 7pm
If the Parazan wines weren’t to your liking, visit La Maison des Vins du Minervois, just across the footbridge from our base. They offer a vast selection of wines from over 100 wineries and vineyards of the region, and they will gladly allow you to try before you buy. They are open until 6pm, Mon – Fri.
Alternatively, 15 minutes from Homps, by foot, you’ll find Lake Jouarres. It’s a large swimming lake with a walking path around the southern half and perfect for a pre-dinner stroll.
Dinner at En Bonne Compagnie
7pm – 9pm
En Bonne Compagnie is a much-loved choice for dinner on the terrace, where you can watch the boats drift by and soak up the relaxed, romantic atmosphere. Savour refined French cuisine crafted from fresh local ingredients, complemented by a thoughtful selection of regional wines. Booking recommended: +33(0)4 68 91 23 16 | en-bonne-compagnie.fr
Overnight in Homps
For families with younger children
At Lake Jouarres there’s a beach where you can enjoy a late afternoon swim. Plus, in July and August, Domerc Fun Jouarres operate an inflatable waterpark, canoe and kayak rental and other water games. Bookings in advance are advised at: +33 (0)9 74 56 75 67
Breakfast on board
7:30am – 8:30am
Enjoy your final breakfast on board before tidying and vacating your boat by 9am (unless you have booked and paid for a late-checkout).
Depart Homps
9am
10 night alternative
With a little extra time, add bike rentals to your booking or pick them up for the day at our Homps base and follow the gentle 12km route to Minerve. Frequently listed among the most beautiful towns in France, Minerve enchants with cobbled lanes, slender passageways, honey-stone houses and a simple 12th-century church. Perched on a rocky spur above two dramatic river gorges and reached by a single high bridge, it carries the echoes of a famed medieval siege and offers views you will remember long after the ride back to Homps.
There may also be time to spend a day exploring the UNESCO listed citadel of Carcassonne. It is around 10 hours of cruising from Homps, which makes a round trip ambitious on this itinerary. A taxi from Homps takes about 30 minutes, so a day visit by road is a relaxed and rewarding option.
This itinerary is a suggestion only
This suggested itinerary is an indication of what could be accomplished, and your ability to accomplish it, is not a contractual obligation of Le Boat. Le Boat is unable to guarantee when your pre-departure briefing will take place and in some cases it will not be given until the morning after your arrival. In these instances, you will need to adapt the itinerary outlined to accommodate a later departure. All cruising distances and times are approximations and are subject to local navigation restrictions at the time you cruise, planned or otherwise, which may also require you to deviate from the itinerary shown. Please check advertised opening times of sights, attractions and restaurants to avoid disappointment – some may need to be booked in advance. All meals, entry fees and tour tariffs are payable at your own expense. Attractions, restaurants and even locks and/or stretches of the waterway may be closed or can close without notice.
We’d love to hear from you
We’ve tried our very best to ensure the accuracy of the information we’ve provided. If you have followed all or some of this itinerary and have found something isn’t quite right, or perhaps you have some helpful tips and pointers that we could add which might be useful to your fellow boaters, we’d love to hear from you. Please email us at: itineraries@leboat.com
Image Credits
Fonseranes Locks aerial: Shutterstock | Fonseranes Locks, Boats in the locks: Wikipedia