7-Night Canal du Midi Itinerary: Port Cassafières to Castelnaudary

Port Cassafières > Cers

5pm – 6pm

Approx. 1hr | 1 lock

Make your way to your first overnight mooring in Cers, just a gentle 1-hour cruise away. This easygoing stretch of canal is the perfect introduction to life on the water, with just one simple lock to navigate along the way. Surrounded by peaceful scenery, it’s an ideal chance to settle into the rhythm of your boating vacation.

Moor up and enjoy your first evening on board at this charming stop. While not a marina, this quiet free mooring offers a relaxed and peaceful setting to unwind at your own pace.

Cers > Béziers

8:30am – 10am

Approx. 1hrs 30mins | 2 locks

Cruise towards the historic city of Béziers, passing peaceful canal scenery and navigating two easy locks along the way. Moor up at Maison Batelière marina before setting off to explore one of the oldest cities in southern France.

Explore Béziers

10am – 1pm

Once moored, it’s just a 25-minute walk or 10-minute cycle into the heart of the city from the marina. It’s the capital of Languedoc’s wine industry and birthplace of Pierre-Paul Riquet, who was responsible for building the Canal du Midi. Like all cities with a long history, Béziers is best discovered by ambling through its medieval streets, its bright squares and its leafy parks. 

Visit the majestic St. Nazaire Cathedral, located on a rocky mount which affords a magnificent panorama across the city and its five bridges. Admire the sculptures and paintings dating from the 15th century to present day at the Museum of Fine Arts, including Rubens and Delacroix productions. Stroll through the Plateau des Poètes garden and discover the works of a local sculptor. You’ll find all the necessary shops and plenty of restaurants in Béziers.

Béziers > Fonseranes Locks

3pm – 3:40pm

Approx. 40mins | 2 locks

Keep on cruising past Béziers and as you exit Orb Lock, you will cross over the River Orb on the Orb Aqueduct – the largest aqueduct on the Canal du Midi with seven main arches measuring a total of 240m long, 28m wide and 12m high.

Moor up and get in line at the Fonseranes Locks for the next lock opening at 4pm.

Ascend the Fonseranes Locks

4pm – 5:30pm

Approx. 1hr 30mins | 7 locks

One of Pierre-Paul Riquet’s greatest engineering achievements, the Fonseranes Locks are among the Canal du Midi’s most iconic sights. This impressive staircase of locks was originally built with eight chambers, allowing boats to climb 21.5 metres over a distance of 300 metres. Today, six chambers remain in operation, continuing to offer boaters an unforgettable cruising experience.

There are set times for passing through the lock flight, so it’s important to arrive in good time. Boats ascending the locks can usually pass between 10am – 11:45am (until 12:15pm during peak season) and again between 4pm – 5:15pm (until 6:45pm in peak season). Missing your allocated slot may mean waiting until later in the day, or even overnight, for the next available passage.

The journey through the staircase takes around an hour and is fully managed by the lock keepers, who expertly coordinate multiple boats through each chamber. Your role is simply to steer carefully into the locks and keep the boat steady using your mooring lines.

After you’re in the first lock, it is easier to send one or two crew members lock-side with the lines (when it is safe to do so) and keep them there for the duration. Take your time, enjoy the atmosphere and don’t feel rushed – passing through Fonseranes is all part of the adventure, and one of the highlights of cruising the Canal du Midi.

Fonseranes Locks > Poilhes

5:30pm – 6:55pm

Approx. 1hr 25mins | 0 locks

After passing through the Fonseranes Locks, you’ll enter one of the Canal du Midi’s longest uninterrupted stretches of cruising. Known as the ‘big pound’, this peaceful section continues for 54km with no locks until just before Argens-Minervois.

Along the way, you’ll pass through the remarkable Malpas Tunnel, which cuts beneath the hill of Ensérune. Secretly excavated by Pierre-Paul Riquet, the tunnel was considered an extraordinary engineering feat for its time. Work was originally halted after unstable sandstone was discovered, but determined to keep the canal project alive, Riquet continued digging in secret and completed the tunnel in just eight days. Measuring 173m long, 6m wide and 8.5m high, it became the very first navigable canal tunnel in Europe.

Note: There’s no room for passing other boats, so check that passage is clear first, and sound your horn before entering.

Dinner at Les Platanes, Poilhes

7:30pm – 9:30pm

Moor right outside this highly-rated little restaurant. Les Platanes is situated in at a leafy crossroads just a stone’s throw from the canal. Sit on their cute kerb-side terrace, enjoy delicious French and Mediterranean cuisine and a receive a warm welcome from its New Zealand owners: +33 4 67 93 38 41

Alternatively, after a busy day of boating and navigating the Fonseranes Locks, spend the evening on board your boat.

Poilhes > Le Somail

9am – 12:45pm

Approx. 3hrs 45mins | 0 locks

As you pass through Capestang, the stone bridge you pass under has the reputation of being the lowest on the canal (the lowest is actually in Carcassonne). Its curved shape makes it quite tricky to pass under – so take it slow and steady.

The Port du Somail is subject to a mooring fee – please contact the Harbour Master’s Office for more details. +33 9 84 58 81 38 | +33 7 44 90 00 06

Lunch on board, Le Somail

1pm – 2:30pm

Enjoy a leisurely lunch on board and then stroll to Le Glacier du Somail for a scrummy frozen dessert. They open at 2pm.

Cycle to L’Oulibo

2:30pm – 2:50pm

If you added bike rental to your vacation booking, we suggest cycling 20 minutes to the north of Somail to visit the The Olive Oil Cooperative Oulibo. Or, the tourist information office (next to Nicols) may arrange a taxi for you.

Explore the Olive Oil Cooperative L’Oulibo

3pm – 5pm

Enjoy a 1.5hr guided tour (afternoon tours start at 3pm) through the olive groves to learn about farming olives and the production of olive oil, including a sound and light show and tasting. Book a tour in advance: 04 68 41 88 84 or loulibo.com/guided-visit

Before you set off

5:30pm – 5:45pm

Before you set off, why not stock up on a few treats from Le Somail’s famous Grocery Barge, conveniently located near your mooring. Open until 7pm, it’s the perfect place to pick up fresh produce, local goodies and other essentials for your cruise.

Le Somail > Paraza

5:55pm – 7pm

Approx. 1hr 5mins | 0 locks

On this stretch of the canal, you’ll pass over the Répudre Canal Bridge, one of the only canal bridges built by the canal’s famous designer, Pierre-Paul Riquet. By passing over the waters of the Répudre, it avoided the damage that its waters caused to the canal during floods. Completed in 1676, it was the first canal bridge built in France and is reputed to be the second in the world.

Moor up at the alongside moorings just next to this charming village before dinner nearby your boat.

Paraza > Homps

8am – 10:20am

Approx. 2hrs 20mins | 6 locks

If you’re not in a rush to explore a bit of Homps‘ wine culture, moor just after Pechlaurier Locks and scale the short but steep path that lead to a look-out for some great view over the canal and surrounding countryside. Then continue your journey on to Homps.

Explore the Olive Oil Cooperative L’Oulibo

3pm – 5pm

Enjoy a 1.5hr guided tour (afternoon tours start at 3pm) through the olive groves to learn about farming olives and the production of olive oil, including a sound and light show and tasting. Book a tour in advance: 04 68 41 88 84 or loulibo.com/guided-visit

Lunch at Les Tonneliers, Homps

12:30pm – 2pm

Cross the footbridge by the base and in a couple of minutes you’ll be at the beautiful, Les Tonneliers. Dine in a beautiful and elegant garden setting serving fresh French and Mediterranean cuisine. Booking recommended: +33(0)4 34 44 20 19 | lestonneliers.fr | Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

Homps > Marseillette

2:20pm – 7pm

Approx. 4hrs 40mins | 11 locks

Settle in for one of the longer cruising stretches of your vacation. Completing this section today will give you more time tomorrow to discover and enjoy the many sights of Carcassonne at a leisurely pace.

Marseillette > Carcassonne

8am – 12:55pm

Approx. 4hrs 55mins | 10 locks

Lunch in Chez Fred, Carcassonne (lower town area)

1:15pm – 14:45pm

We recommend Chez Fred: Adjacent to the port (just a 4-minute walk), Pierre and Siham share their passion for good, seasonal and local produce. A refined, bistronomic cuisine that combines flavors, colors and originality. +33 (0)4 68 72 02 23 | restaurant-chezfred.fr

Alternatively, only a 10-minute walk from the port, Le Blé Noir crêperie is highly-rated and very popular and serves out-of-this-world crêpes with savoury and sweet toppings to die for. +33 (0)4 68 72 34 80

Explore La Cité de Carcassonne (the citadel)

3:30pm – 6:30pm

Visit the ancient part of the city “La Cité de Carcassonne“. A UNESCO World Heritage site, this fortified, medieval, walled city is unique in Europe by its sheer size and its superb state of conservation. Walking along the walls, you’ll appreciate the immense scale of the structure. Then, visit the Cathedral St. Nazaire, a beautiful structure, if only to view its magnificent stained-glass windows. Finally, wander through the cobbled streets to Château Comtal, located at the heart of the citadel.

Dinner in La Marquière, Carcassonne (the citadel)

7pm – 9pm

We recommend La Marquière: This is a ‘good find’ in the heart of the citadel, offering classic French dishes which are beautifully presented. Enjoy dining al fresco in the lovely inner terrace and be sure to leave room for dessert. Booking recommended: +33 (0)4 68 71 52 00 | lamarquiere.com

Carcassonne > Bram

8am – 12:25pm

Approx. 4hrs 25mins | 6 locks

If you’re planning to try waterskiing at Téléski Nautique, this is an early start to the day. If not, enjoy a relaxed morning on board at your own pace before arriving in Bram for lunch.

Alternatively, wine lovers can choose between a visit to Domaine de la Périnade or Château de Serres (both just a short taxi ride away), two excellent wineries located close to the Canal du Midi, both offering guided tours and wine tastings.

Explore Bram

12:30pm – 1pm

A pleasant walk or cycle along a tree-lined avenue leads from the moorings into Bram village, where you’ll find several restaurants, including a pizzeria opposite the museum, as well as a grocery store, butcher, pâtisseries and other local shops. From here, continue to Téléski Nautique for lunch.

Lunch at Téléski Nautique, Bram

1pm – 2pm

A 20-minute walk from the moorings (9 minutes by bike) you’ll find Lake Buzerens, home to Teleski Nautique de Bram. Before you get in the water, you can enjoy a plate of delicious tapas and a glass of local wine served at the restaurant which has a beautiful, shaded terrace overlooking the water. +33 (0)4 68 79 74 14.

Water-skiing at Teleski Nautique, Bram

2:30pm – 4pm

This is a great place to give water-skiing a try and spend a fun afternoon on (and in) the water. Pulled along by a 600 meter long, over-head ski-lift, adults and children as young as 7 years old can experience a variety of disciplines from knee-boarding to water-skiing, all the while supervised by experienced instructors. For bookings: +33 (0)4 68 79 74 14

Bram > Villepinte

4:30pm – 5:45pm

Approx. 1hr 15mins | 3 locks

After passing through Villepinte Lock, find a picturesque mooring spot along the way and settle in for a peaceful evening on board.

Villepinte > Pexiora

9:30am – 10am

Approx. 30mins | 1 lock

After passing through Trèbes Lock, cruise on for around 600 metres to reach a convenient mooring area on the right-hand side.

Explore Pexiora

10am – 11:30am

The charming village of Pexiora lies around 2 km from the canal and is well worth the walk or cycle through the surrounding countryside. Once there, stop by the excellent Malbert David bakery to pick up fresh provisions for lunch. Be sure to arrive before 1pm, when the bakery closes for the day.

Lunch on board, near Pexiora

12noon – 1pm

Pexiora > Castelnaudary

1pm – 5pm

Approx. 4 hrs | 14 locks

Explore Castelnaudary

5pm – 6:30pm

Take a walk up to the village and visit the St-Michel collegiate church. Then, continue further to the outskirt to enjoy the view from the Cugarel windmill. Built in the 17th century and restored in 1962, this cute, little stone windmill still has its working mechanism intact.

Dinner at Le Clos Fleuri, Castelnaudary

7pm – 9pm

After a 25-minute walk, enjoy fine dining made from local products in this beautiful restaurant in Clos Fleuri Hotel. Don’t forget to try the authentic cassoulet, the traditional Castelnaudary dish! +33 (0)4 68 94 01 20 | www.leclosfleuri.fr