7-Night Canal du Midi Itinerary: Port Cassafières via Narbonne Return

Port Cassafières > Cers

5pm – 6pm

Approx. 1hr | 1 lock

Make your way to your first overnight mooring in Cers, just a gentle 1-hour cruise away. This easygoing stretch of canal is the perfect introduction to life on the water, with just one simple lock to navigate along the way. Surrounded by peaceful scenery, it’s an ideal chance to settle into the rhythm of your boating vacation.

Moor up and enjoy your first evening on board at this charming stop. While not a marina, this quiet free mooring offers a relaxed and peaceful setting to unwind at your own pace.

Cers > Béziers

8:30am – 10am

Approx. 1hrs 30mins | 2 locks

Cruise towards the historic city of Béziers, passing peaceful canal scenery and navigating two easy locks along the way. Moor up at Maison Batelière marina before setting off to explore one of the oldest cities in southern France.

Explore Béziers

10am – 1pm

Once moored, it’s just a 25-minute walk or 10-minute cycle into the heart of the city from the marina. It’s the capital of Languedoc’s wine industry and birthplace of Pierre-Paul Riquet, who was responsible for building the Canal du Midi. Like all cities with a long history, Béziers is best discovered by ambling through its medieval streets, its bright squares and its leafy parks. 

Visit the majestic St. Nazaire Cathedral, located on a rocky mount which affords a magnificent panorama across the city and its five bridges. Admire the sculptures and paintings dating from the 15th century to present day at the Museum of Fine Arts, including Rubens and Delacroix productions. Stroll through the Plateau des Poètes garden and discover the works of a local sculptor. You’ll find all the necessary shops and plenty of restaurants in Béziers.

Béziers > Fonseranes Locks

3pm – 3:40pm

Approx. 40mins | 2 locks

Keep on cruising past Béziers and as you exit Orb Lock, you will cross over the River Orb on the Orb Aqueduct – the largest aqueduct on the Canal du Midi with seven main arches measuring a total of 240m long, 28m wide and 12m high.

Moor up and get in line at the Fonseranes Locks for the next lock opening at 4pm.

Ascend the Fonseranes Locks

4pm – 5:30pm

Approx. 1hr 30mins | 7 locks

One of Pierre-Paul Riquet’s greatest engineering achievements, the Fonseranes Locks are among the Canal du Midi’s most iconic sights. This impressive staircase of locks was originally built with eight chambers, allowing boats to climb 21.5 metres over a distance of 300 metres. Today, six chambers remain in operation, continuing to offer boaters an unforgettable cruising experience.

There are set times for passing through the lock flight, so it’s important to arrive in good time. Boats ascending the locks can usually pass between 10am – 11:45am (until 12:15pm during peak season) and again between 4pm – 5:15pm (until 6:45pm in peak season). Missing your allocated slot may mean waiting until later in the day, or even overnight, for the next available passage.

The journey through the staircase takes around an hour and is fully managed by the lock keepers, who expertly coordinate multiple boats through each chamber. Your role is simply to steer carefully into the locks and keep the boat steady using your mooring lines.

After you’re in the first lock, it is easier to send one or two crew members lock-side with the lines (when it is safe to do so) and keep them there for the duration. Take your time, enjoy the atmosphere and don’t feel rushed – passing through Fonseranes is all part of the adventure, and one of the highlights of cruising the Canal du Midi.

Fonseranes Locks > Colombiers

5:30pm – 6:15pm

Approx. 45mins | 0 locks

After the Fonseranes Locks, there are no more locks on the Canal du Midi for 54km until just before Argens-Minervois – this stretch of the canal called the ‘big pound’.

Explore Colombiers

6:30pm – 7:30pm

The small, pretty town of Colombiers is a lively place with a supermarket, pharmacy and newsagents right at the port. After a 300m stroll into the village, you’ll find a lovely patisserie, more restaurants and a pretty church. Just to the west of the town you’ll come across the Malpas Tunnel, the first canal tunnel in Europe.

Colombiers > Malpas Tunnel

9am – 9:15am

Approx. 15mins | 0 locks

Just outside Colombiers, moor on the left just before the entrance to the Malpas tunnel for an on-foot adventure to explore the Oppidum of Ensérune.

Explore the Oppidum of Ensérune

9:15am – 11:15am

Follow the path uphill towards the Oppidum of Ensérune – an archaeological site that offers a remarkable glimpse into the past, from the Bronze Age to the Roman conquest (6th century BC to 1st century AD). Follow the trail to discover the well-preserved remains of the ancient village and 300 silos dug into the rock to store grain. The museum houses a fine collection of pottery and ceramics from excavations on this site.

This is also the best viewpoint to see the dry Montady Lake, which was once a marsh of stagnant water which once caused many epidemics. In the 13th century, the lake was dried out using 60 drainage ditches, which split this vast expanse of 430 hectares into the shape of a large shining sun. From the center, an underground culvert, 1.3km in length, evacuates water through the hill of Ensérune, under the Malpas Tunnel, and away to the south.

Malpas Tunnel > Poilhes

11:30am – 12:15pm

Approx. 45mins | 0 locks

Begin by cruising through the Malpas tunnel, which passes under the hill of Ensérune and was dug, in secret, by Riquet. A few meters of digging in hard rock revealed very brittle sandstone, subject to slippage. So, work was stopped by the prime minister while he sent a royal commission to decide the canal’s future. Undeterred, Riquet began digging anyway and completed the tunnel in eight days. The tunnel is 173m long, 6m wide and 8.5m high – the first navigable canal tunnel in Europe.

Note: There’s no room for passing other boats, so check that passage is clear first, and sound your horn before entering.

Lunch at Les Platanes, Poilhes

12:30pm – 1:45pm

Moor right outside Les Platanes, this highly-rated little restaurant is situated in at a leafy crossroads just a stone’s throw from the canal. Sit on their cute kerb-side terrace, enjoy delicious French and Mediterranean cuisine and a receive a warm welcome from its New Zealand owners. +33 4 67 93 38 41

Poilhes > Capestang

2pm – 2:50pm

Approx. 50mins | 0 locks

Explore Capestang

3pm – 4pm

Capestang is a small market town. The Gothic St. Étienne Collegiate church was built in the 13th century by the same team who built the cathedral in Narbonne. It was meant to be a lot bigger and grander, but it was never finished, hence the rather ‘out-of-place’ grandeur of the stained-glass windows and other features. It is worth paying for a tour, which grants you access to the bell tower, from which magnificent views over the Cevennes foothills, the Pyrenees and the Oppidum of Ensérune can be enjoyed. This ancient Archbishop’s Castle was the Archbishop of Narbonne’s summer residence and, while it’s not much to look at from the outside, it’s worth a visit to see the palace staterooms and a ceiling adorned with 15th century paintings.

Capestang > Le Somail

4:15pm – 7:15pm

Approx. 3hrs | 0 locks

As you leave Capestang, the stone bridge you pass under has the reputation of being the lowest on the canal (the lowest is actually in Carcassonne). Its curved shape makes it quite tricky to pass under – so take it slow and steady.

The Port du Somail is subject to a mooring fee – please contact the Harbour Master’s Office for more details. +33 9 84 58 81 38 | +33 7 44 90 00 06

When you arrive, we recommend ordering bread and pastries for your morning breakfast from the grocery barge: +33 6 69 53 67 18

Dinner at L’Ô à la Bouche, Le Somail

7:30pm – 9:30pm

L’Ô à la Bouche is a beautifully converted wine cellar is the ideal setting for this restaurant that serves elegant and tasty French food and exquisite desserts – all home-made. They have been awarded the title of Maître Restaurateur which recognizes excellence and their commitment to quality. There outdoor seating is right next to the canal. For bookings: +33 7 69 42 21 46 | loalabouche-somail.com

Breakfast on board

8am – 9am

Visit Le Somail’s famous Grocery Barge, moored beside the bridge, to pick up fresh bread and breakfast pastries for the morning. The barge also stocks basic groceries, drinks, wines and a selection of regional specialities. It opens daily from 7am.

Le Somail > Sallèles d’Aude

9am – 10:45am

Approx. 1hr 45mins | 5 locks

Set off east this morning, retracing your route from the previous evening before turning off the Canal du Midi onto the Embranchement de la Nouvelle. The first stretch follows the perfectly straight Canal de Jonction, home to seven locks along the route.

Explore Sallèles d’Aude

11am – 12noon

This charming little village is well worth a short stroll. Discover the quirky Chapel of St. Roch and Le Calvaire, a pretty stone structure with arches and a covered roof that has since been transformed into a peaceful park for the village to enjoy.

Sallèles d’Aude > Narbonne

1:30pm – 4pm

Approx. 2hrs 30mins | 5 locks

Continue to the end of the Canal de Jonction, where you’ll turn right onto the River Aude for a short stretch before passing through another lock and joining the Canal de la Robine.

Explore Narbonne

4:15pm – 6:30pm

Enjoy an early evening stroll before dinner and soak up Narbonne’s rich heritage and lively southern French atmosphere. Grand historic buildings stand alongside elegant boulevards, bustling squares and modern cafés, while the city’s close proximity to Spain gives it a distinctive Mediterranean character.

Dinner at Chez Lulu, Narbonne

7pm – 9pm

Make sure you book at Chez Lulu in advance as this place gets busy. The warm welcome, chic setting, attentive staff and excellent food all give this restaurant a highly-acclaimed reputation. Lulu himself will often come and explain his menu to you. To book: +33 4 68 32 24 87

Explore more of Narbonne

9am – 12noon

The Archbishop’s Palace is one of Narbonne’s most striking landmarks and has housed the City Hall since the 19th century. Today, it is also home to the Museum of Art and the Archaeological Museum. Climb the steep steps of the 42m tower for sweeping views across the city towards the Mediterranean and Narbonne Cathedral – the third tallest cathedral in France, renowned for its vast Gothic interior.

While exploring the city, don’t miss the famous Les Halles de Narbonne, a beloved covered market at the heart of local life. With more than 70 stalls selling everything from fresh bread and pastries to seafood, cheeses, charcuterie and regional wines, it’s the perfect place to stock up for on-board picnics and barbecues.

Lunch at Chez Bebelle, Narbonne

12noon – 1:15pm

Located in Les Halles de Narbonne, at Chez Bebelle your order is announced by staff using a megaphone and then the fresh meat will be tossed to the kitchen staff from neighboring stalls. Quite a show! Open 8am – 2pm. +33 6 85 40 09 01 | chez-bebelle.fr

If you’d prefer less ‘hectic’ surroundings or aren’t big on meat, then try Chez Marius, not far from Les Halles. This wine bar serves delicious tapas style food, a great selection of wine and has a great covered outdoor space on which to enjoy it. +33 4 30 16 12 82 | chezmarius-narbonne.fr

Narbonne > Argeliers

1:30pm – 6pm

Approx. 4hrs 30mins | 10 locks

Back the way you came yesterday. Make sure you leave no later than 1:30pm – to ensure you arrive in Argeliers before the locks close and to get a mooring space before it gets too full.

Explore Argeliers

6:30pm – 7:15pm

Enjoy and early evening stroll before getting ready for dinner.

Lunch on board, Argeliers

12:30pm – 2pm

Argeliers > Colombiers

Approx. 3hrs 40mins | 0 locks

2:20pm – 6pm

Make your way back to Colombiers, passing familiar scenery along the way, including the Malpas Tunnel. Moor just outside Au Lavoir restaurant, your dinner spot for the evening.

Colombiers > Fonseranes Locks

8am – 8:45am

Approx. 0hrs 45mins | 0 locks

Descend the Fonseranes Locks

8:45am – 10:15am

Approx. 1hr 30mins | 7 locks

Boats descending the Fonseranes Locks can usually pass between 8:40am – 9:25am (from 8:10 during peak season), and between as early as 7:40 and 8:25 (early Oct – early Nov). We recommend setting off as close to the opening times as possible to help avoid longer waiting times during busy periods.

Fonseranes Locks > Port Cassafières

10:15am – 1:15pm

Approx. 3hrs | 5 locks

This is the final stretch of your journey, so sit back, relax and enjoy a gentle three-hour cruise back to Port Cassafières.

Explore Portiragnes Plage

4pm – 6:45pm

Walk down to east end of Plage de la Redoute (20minutes) and then enjoy a pre-dinner stroll along the sand. You can’t see any buildings from the beach so it feels wonderfully remote and wild. When you reach the Maui Plage Snack bar – exit the beach to find a cluster of restaurants to enjoy dinner at.